George Keburia’s Dark Military Fantasy Was the Highlight of London Fashion Week

On February 20th, George Keburia reminded everyone why he is currently the only Georgian designer holding a spot on the official London Fashion Week calendar. For his third show in the city, Keburia didn't just put clothes on a runway; he built a whole mood that felt moodier, tougher, and more confident than anything we’ve seen from him before. While his previous collections had a lighter touch, this Fall 2025/2026 season took his signature "militaria" style and turned it up to eleven, trading his usual playfulness for a darker, more cinematic edge.

The atmosphere was set by an original ten-minute track from the Georgian rock band Quemmekh. Created specifically for the show, the music matched the tempo of the models perfectly. For those who follow the band, there was a hidden "internal code" – a tiny fragment of an old song tucked into the new composition. It waხs also a big moment for the group, as it featured their first-ever lyrics in English. Following his collaboration with Mamaflex last season, Keburia is clearly making it a mission to bring the best of the Georgian art scene to the global stage.

The clothes themselves were a mix of sexy military silhouettes and royal drama. But the main inspiration was spiders.

Spiders were my biggest fear since childhood, but I overcame that fear and became friends with them. I used spiders motifs to style collections, military stuff, and the Napoleon Jacket, that are brand’s identity, I think, – George Keburia.

We saw the return of hoods, tutu-shaped skirts, and heavy furs in zebra and white cheetah prints. The standout pieces were the masculine  blazers covered in vintage buttons and belts featuring crossed swords. To balance out the heavy tailoring, Keburia added a "cherry on top" with high heels that looked like something a modern Snow White would wear, finished with bright yellow bows.

Of course, it wouldn’t be a Keburia show without a viral "if you know, you know" moment. A few seasons back, he made waves with a "BYE ANA" T-shirt, referencing rumors of Anna Wintour leaving Vogue. This time, he doubled down on the industry gossip with a shirt featuring a giant question mark and the words: "Hi, Lauren Bezos Sanchez." It’s a direct nod to the rumors that Jeff Bezos might buy Condé Nast for his wife, Lauren – a move that would put her right in the middle of Wintour’s world. It was cheeky, timely, and exactly the kind of social commentary the fashion world loves.

The show ended with eveningwear that took all that military grit and turned it into something anyone would be happy to wear to a party. George Keburia proved once again that he knows exactly how to bridge the gap between his heritage and the high-stakes world of international fashion.