Inside Baku’s First MBFW: Leila Imanova on Celebrating Azerbaijani Designers

It was a landmark moment for Azerbaijan’s fashion industry, as Baku hosted Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week for the first time. Designers from across the region and beyond, including several from Georgia, presented their collections during the event. One of the highlights was an exhibition showcasing the work of Azerbaijani designers, curated by Leila Imanova. In an interview with The Diary, Leila discusses the concept behind the exhibition, its cultural importance, and the journey of bringing the idea to life.

Leila, How did the idea of curating a special exposition with Azerbaijani designers come about, and what story are you aiming to tell through it?

Leila: ;The idea stemmed from our understanding that MBFW is primarily an international event. While it takes place in Azerbaijan, it was very important for us to showcase the level of local design to the international community and to draw attention to Azerbaijani brands. For this reason, we created a special Fashion&Art corner dedicated to Azerbaijani designers, where visitors can explore their work not only once but throughout the entire duration of the first season of MBFW Azerbaijan. Additionally, the exhibition will feature a work by contemporary artist Elnara Nasirli, highlighting the vibrant intersection of fashion and modern art. Through this initiative, we aim to tell a story about the richness and creativity of Azerbaijani design, highlighting its significance and integration into the global fashion landscape.

Since Azerbaijani identity is rich and multifaceted, what elements — cultural, historical, or contemporary — did you want the designers to reflect in their work for this exposition?

Leila: The exhibition features a diverse group of designers — some incorporate traditional elements into their work, while others present entirely modern and contemporary designs. This variety reflects the essence of today's Azerbaijan: a country that is modern and rapidly developing, yet deeply respectful of its traditions and cultural heritage.

Through this showcase, we want to highlight the multifaceted nature of Azerbaijani identity — its ability to blend innovation with tradition, creating a dynamic and vibrant cultural landscape that is both rooted in the past and looking confidently toward the future. Ultimately, we hope to shed light on Azerbaijan's dynamic design scene and inspire new conversations around cultural expression and artistic innovation.

How did you select the designers, and what makes each of them a unique voice in representing Azerbaijani fashion?

Leila: The selection of designers for this exhibition was a thoughtful process aimed at showcasing a diverse range of talents. Some of the brands featured have long established themselves both locally and internationally, earning recognition for their innovative approach and high-quality craftsmanship. Others are relatively new to the scene, but they demonstrate great potential and enthusiasm, bringing fresh ideas and energy to Azerbaijani fashion.

What makes each of these designers unique is their ability to represent different facets of Azerbaijani culture and creativity. Some draw inspiration from our rich heritage, while others push boundaries with modern, avant-garde designs. Together, they form a vibrant mosaic that highlights the evolving landscape of Azerbaijani fashion and its diverse voices.

As someone with a degree in fashion design and a curator, how do you see fashion playing a role in shaping and preserving national identity in today's world?

Leila: Fashion plays a significant role in today's world by serving as a powerful expression of cultural heritage, traditions, and values. It provides a platform for showcasing unique craftsmanship, symbolism, and stories that are intrinsic to a nation's identity. For example, traditional garments like the kimono in Japan, the sarong in Southeast Asia, or the keffiyeh in the Middle East are not only clothing but also symbols of cultural history and social identity — and we've seen so many interpretations of these pieces in the collections of world-renowned designers. Through fashion, communities can celebrate their history while also adapting to contemporary influences, ensuring that their cultural essence remains relevant and vibrant.